Note from the editor:

Like the seven sun-dappled hills that overlook the sparkling Rio Tejo, Lisbon has had its ups and downs. Nevertheless, the plucky city has always bounced back and today it’s positively thriving. We’ve combed the cobbled streets to find the best bacalhau, the creamiest pastéis de nata and the sweetest ginjinha. We’ve also visited museums dedicated to everything from horse-drawn carriages to cutting-edge technology and discovered daringly modern architecture among red-tiled townhouses and baroque churches. Allow us to guide you through this eminently liveable (did we mention there are sandy beaches?) and fast-changing city.

The Monocle Travel Guide series reveals our favourite places in each city we cover, from the ideal route for an early-morning run to the best spots for independent retail. Full of surprises and quirks, they also feature detailed design and architecture pages, neighbourhood walks to get you away from the crowds and our favourite places to eat everything be it tasty fast food or something truly celebratory.